yoann56
Nouveau
Salut Midodiy,Normal en harnais d'avoir plus de bruit.
C'est quoi cette idée de vouloir passer volée/harnais en marche? Interdit, tu passes à l'arret et tu tournes le mandrin à la main.
J'aime bien l'integration du variateur (j'aime pas le variateur au mur dans un coffret) ,peut-etre ameliorer le passage des cables
L'idée c'est un lointain souvenir d'étudiant d'une manette que l'on actionnait pour que ça aille plus vite pour les filetages. Mais bon c'était en 97-98-99 et j'ai fait qu'une approche du tournage, merci pour ta réponse. Effectivement, l'intégration du variateur n'est pas propre. Je vais le remplacer car il freine pas complètement.
yoann56
Nouveau
Merci Roland
yoann56
Nouveau
Salut Biloute, Oups c'est pour ça que ça craque ! Merci pour ton conseilsBonjour
J'ai le même ! (du moins, le même socle, parce qu'il y en a eu un paquet)
Pour le variateur, c'est sûr que ça fait plus propre comme ça, mais moi je n'avais pas osé à cause des vibrations (de toutes façons je vais passer en tri à la maison bientôt
Pour les passages en marche, apriori la seule chose qu'on peut faire moteur tournant, c'est débrayer/embrayer la vis mère. pour le reste, arrêt du moteur, changement re rapport, et remise en route.
yoann56
Nouveau
Salut, j'ai trouvé ce paragraphe dans la notice du h130, c'est ce qui m'a induit en erreur, c'est sur la phase d'arrêt en fait ?Normal en harnais d'avoir plus de bruit.
C'est quoi cette idée de vouloir passer volée/harnais en marche? Interdit, tu passes à l'arret et tu tournes le mandrin à la main.
J'aime bien l'integration du variateur (j'aime pas le variateur au mur dans un coffret) ,peut-etre ameliorer le passage des cables
desmo-phil
Compagnon
Bonjour a tous.
J'aimerais quelques renseignement à propos de mon tour H 130 qui n'a plus son moteur d'origine.
( 1° ) Est ce que un moteur 750 -- 3000 trs ça se trouve d'occaze ?
( 2° ) il me semble que les bivitesses sont généralement mono tension 220 tri pour ce qui est du H130, oui ou non ? Si oui ajout d'un transfo ?
Merci a vous.
J'aimerais quelques renseignement à propos de mon tour H 130 qui n'a plus son moteur d'origine.
( 1° ) Est ce que un moteur 750 -- 3000 trs ça se trouve d'occaze ?
( 2° ) il me semble que les bivitesses sont généralement mono tension 220 tri pour ce qui est du H130, oui ou non ? Si oui ajout d'un transfo ?
Merci a vous.
desmo-phil
Compagnon
Merci les gars !
Bon ben voila si quelqu'un connait un Novacem à un prix raisonnable 750/3000 je suis intéressé ! ! !
Si non ce sera un variateur, j'ai un vario mécanique mais je le trouve un peu faible, et un altivar qui fonctionnerais à 12.5 hz pour avoir la division par 4 je ne sais pas trop ! J'ai 2 ATV312, je ne les fais pas descendre au dessous de 20 hertz.
Si quelqu'un a un retour pour un fonctionnement à basse fréquence ?
Bon ben voila si quelqu'un connait un Novacem à un prix raisonnable 750/3000 je suis intéressé ! ! !
Si non ce sera un variateur, j'ai un vario mécanique mais je le trouve un peu faible, et un altivar qui fonctionnerais à 12.5 hz pour avoir la division par 4 je ne sais pas trop ! J'ai 2 ATV312, je ne les fais pas descendre au dessous de 20 hertz.
Si quelqu'un a un retour pour un fonctionnement à basse fréquence ?
midodiy
Compagnon
Tu mets un moteur 1500tr, tu l'alimentes en 25hz et en 100hz! C'est comme ça que je fais, j'ai 3 vitesses électrique: 25, 50 et 100Hz. Du coup, je change rarement les vitesses mecanique, j'ai 500, 1000 et 2000tr du bout du doigt, je peux changer pendant que ça tourne! Super agreable...
pmconsulting
Nouveau
I am enchanted with French engineering! So much detail has gone into this machine. I learn something every day. I made change gears on a 3D printer using ABS material. The French stayed with metric. Smart! We use imperial, which this lathe handles beautifully. I had to make the change gears that were missing:
I can make these or post the Fusion360 files for them. Let me know. Modulo 1 gears are engineering genius that the rest of the world had not yet appreciated. But I do. Such simple and elegant engineering. The French were the first to discover precision metal machining and the rest of the world owes you their gratitude.
I can make these or post the Fusion360 files for them. Let me know. Modulo 1 gears are engineering genius that the rest of the world had not yet appreciated. But I do. Such simple and elegant engineering. The French were the first to discover precision metal machining and the rest of the world owes you their gratitude.
Vieulapin
Compagnon
Généreuse proposition, qui ne peut qu'être appréciée par ceux qui possèdent une imprimante 3D. Qu'il en soit remercié. Mais je me pose une question : imprimer ces pignons est-il moins onéreux et plus rapide qu'acheter des ébauches (chez Tridistribution par exemple car il me semble comprendre que c'est du module 1) et les usiner à la demande ?
Après, s'il s'agit de pignons au module 1,25, presque introuvables, ça change tout.
Après, s'il s'agit de pignons au module 1,25, presque introuvables, ça change tout.
Dernière édition:
midodiy
Compagnon
Oui, je l'ai deja fait! C'est environ 100€ la collection de pignon et du travail, un alésoir de 20, une broche de 5mm...
crapulatos
Compagnon
Hello PM
Many thanks for your share. We apreciate this.
As it is a French export, It will be of great interest to have a picture of the maker label including serials that should be at the back of the lathe on right hand side. It will compare to the french figures.
Also if you have scans of any genuine manual or part list I could share this on our french wiki on the subject.
Everything of De Valliere is shared here http://dokuwiki.etmoteur.fr/doku.php?id=devalliere:devalliere
Even the SW files of the thread gears could be published on this site .
This is a french spoken site, but just ask for help if translation is needed.
brgds
E.T.
Many thanks for your share. We apreciate this.
As it is a French export, It will be of great interest to have a picture of the maker label including serials that should be at the back of the lathe on right hand side. It will compare to the french figures.
Also if you have scans of any genuine manual or part list I could share this on our french wiki on the subject.
Everything of De Valliere is shared here http://dokuwiki.etmoteur.fr/doku.php?id=devalliere:devalliere
Even the SW files of the thread gears could be published on this site .
This is a french spoken site, but just ask for help if translation is needed.
brgds
E.T.
crapulatos
Compagnon
4 mm ? tu es sûr?Moi aussi : 56 € pour 10 pignons, alésages à 19 réalisés sur le tour et clavetages 4 mm sur l'étau limeur d'un copain...
J'ai aussi fait mes pignons et c'était bien une clavette de 5mm
E.T.
Le Prolls
Compagnon
Hi pmconsulting, welcome on this forum.
It looks like a brand new one....It's nice to see a French lathe in USA.
Regards.
Florent07
Compagnon
Beaucoup moins bonne que de l'acier c'est sur mais un pignon imprimé coûte moins d'un € à faire, à essayer.
pmconsulting
Nouveau
Yes - the keys are 5mm I think I left them as 4mm in the attached file, but just widened them by hand file. Here is the link to the Fusion 360 file where I created the gears. I used the gear script that's built into Fusion360. I tested modulo 1 and it worked perfectly. You can generate whatever gear you need using the gear script under add-ons. The brilliant design of the H140 puts other lathes to shame. For the entire imperial range of threads I only need to change a single gear.
Here is the public link to my Fusion360 file, which you can download: https://a360.co/3bnf5nQ
I am also attaching the STL files for the sizes that I made. These can be printed directly, or sent to any of the online 3D printing services who will provide immediate quotes. I used ABS with great success and I believe Nylon P12 would also be outstanding. Any of those are about one third the cost of a replacement metal gear.
According to what I have read online, ABS plastic will endure a great deal of abuse and shock without any issues. Some say that it is better than cast iron for tolerating shock. I made the plastic gear to see if it would fit and to use as a guide for making a metal gear. It works so well that it makes no sense to bother with a metal gear. If it ever does fail, I can just print another.
Here is the public link to my Fusion360 file, which you can download: https://a360.co/3bnf5nQ
I am also attaching the STL files for the sizes that I made. These can be printed directly, or sent to any of the online 3D printing services who will provide immediate quotes. I used ABS with great success and I believe Nylon P12 would also be outstanding. Any of those are about one third the cost of a replacement metal gear.
According to what I have read online, ABS plastic will endure a great deal of abuse and shock without any issues. Some say that it is better than cast iron for tolerating shock. I made the plastic gear to see if it would fit and to use as a guide for making a metal gear. It works so well that it makes no sense to bother with a metal gear. If it ever does fail, I can just print another.
pmconsulting
Nouveau
Here is the name plate:
This is an ABS change gear in place
Threading chart for imperial pitches
Speeds & feeds
I added a custom, clear cover to the headstock so I could easily select speeds for correct lubrication.
Tis machine tipped over and the carriage & cross slide cranks were all destroyed, including the quick retract mechanism on the cross slide. I had to rebuild all of this. (Amazon only had red knobs in stock, but black are on the way).
2-Speed 4-pol motor with electric brake. I use a VFD, so the low speed and the brake are not needed.
These controls are wired directly to the VFD and provide speed control, forward and reverse, and full DC braking.
VD and DRO
Regarding the VFD, this is a 5.5kW, 3-phase device powered by 240 VAC single phase. It operates the motor at any speed from 0 to 400 Hz (dangerous!), At full torque over that entire range. It stops the lathe in 1 second using DC braking, which uses the motor as a powerful brake. There are many reasons to use a VFD. It allows much better control over lathe speed while the lathe is running. It provides a large number of protections for the motor including over and under current, open or shorted leads, imbalance of any kind among windings, and much more. It will immediately stop fort any fault condition and protects the motor windings. It also uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to drive the motor which provides full torque at low speeds. It has many inputs and outputs so it can completely emulate everything that the original control panel did and more. I highly recommend using a VFD for these machines. The clear head stock cover allows me to choose speeds that will splash enough lubricant into the spindle bearings.
Also very important - the VFD will soft-start the motor rather than abruptly starting it at full speed. Both the start and stop can be adjusted from 1 to 60 seconds. The DC brake is separately adjustable and I have that set for 1 second. It stops the lathe much faster than the motor brake and the soft start is much better for the motor, gears and bearings.
This is an ABS change gear in place
Threading chart for imperial pitches
Speeds & feeds
I added a custom, clear cover to the headstock so I could easily select speeds for correct lubrication.
Tis machine tipped over and the carriage & cross slide cranks were all destroyed, including the quick retract mechanism on the cross slide. I had to rebuild all of this. (Amazon only had red knobs in stock, but black are on the way).
2-Speed 4-pol motor with electric brake. I use a VFD, so the low speed and the brake are not needed.
These controls are wired directly to the VFD and provide speed control, forward and reverse, and full DC braking.
VD and DRO
Regarding the VFD, this is a 5.5kW, 3-phase device powered by 240 VAC single phase. It operates the motor at any speed from 0 to 400 Hz (dangerous!), At full torque over that entire range. It stops the lathe in 1 second using DC braking, which uses the motor as a powerful brake. There are many reasons to use a VFD. It allows much better control over lathe speed while the lathe is running. It provides a large number of protections for the motor including over and under current, open or shorted leads, imbalance of any kind among windings, and much more. It will immediately stop fort any fault condition and protects the motor windings. It also uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to drive the motor which provides full torque at low speeds. It has many inputs and outputs so it can completely emulate everything that the original control panel did and more. I highly recommend using a VFD for these machines. The clear head stock cover allows me to choose speeds that will splash enough lubricant into the spindle bearings.
Also very important - the VFD will soft-start the motor rather than abruptly starting it at full speed. Both the start and stop can be adjusted from 1 to 60 seconds. The DC brake is separately adjustable and I have that set for 1 second. It stops the lathe much faster than the motor brake and the soft start is much better for the motor, gears and bearings.
Dernière édition:
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